Location: Andes, Ecuador.

Height: 5,263m AMSL

Date Summited: December 13th, 2013, at 5:30am  (ECT) – local time

Expedition: Guided

Route: Normal

Précis:

Friend André Simoneau and I regrouped once again for an expedition, this time to the Ecuadorian Andes, climbing a series of volcanoes including: Illiniza Norte, Illiniza Sur, Cotopaxi and Chimborazo. Because of permit issues and regulations on Cotopaxi, we hired the legendary local guide Ivo Veloz.

For the Illinizas, we combined both climbs in under 24 hours. The climb up the Illiniza Sur was completed at lightning pace. We left the hut at 2am in the night for a short hike until we arrived at the cliff headwall, which is roughly 30 metres vertically high, at the top of which the glacier begins. There were a few crevasses to navigate and then we began the brilliant climb on the Western Flank in total darkness, which is roughly set at a mean of 70 degree. We arrived at the summit before dawn, where we had the privilege to witness the most stunning Ecuadorian sunrise over a sea of altocumulus. I would like to thank 438 Squadron for their support in this expedition.

Antoine Labranche and André Simoneau at the summit of Illiniza Norte

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